Kenya Safari Photo 

I´m the person Rashid and Danièle had been waiting for at Nairobi. Yes, I know I was just an anonymous tourist being met by a guide. But the simple fact of moving aside in this airport concourse and not having to follow the crowd of passengers, all getting into the same coach, all going to the same hotel, gave me back my individuality. I was coming on my own in search of the cradle of the world, of regions known and described by others, shown to and seen by other eyes than mine. And two smiles greeted me and welcomed me.

Hardly off the aircraft, luggage loaded in the minibus, a handshake to Khan, the cook and to Charles, our driver, and we were on the road from Nairobi to Nakuru and its lake. It was still dark, but there was already intense activity in the city´s suburbs and I could catch a glimpse of this nation which is either walking or waiting.

Luminous Lake Nakuru with its thousands of pink flamingos forming a rustling and smelly halo around its shores cracked by salt! Rhinoceros, gazelles of all types, each more slender, graceful, gracious, startled, than the other; buffaloes, fearful zebras which you would say are all alike; hippopotamuses on Lake Naivasha, so peaceful until the moment when one of them decides to charge us with lightning resolution: the guide straightaway lifted a great bamboo stick and the animal immediately turned back, ouf!

How can one describe the golden vision of that stately and peaceful lioness lazing in the rising sun of the Masai Mara, surrounded by her five cubs? One of them opens its jaws. Is it going to roar? No, it is just yawning !

This lion dragging a carcass, passing in front of us without so much as looking at us, so close that you could stroke it; those two cheetahs in pursuit of their prey, scattering zebras and gnus; the latter showing such solidarity and courage encircling one of the cheetahs and forcing it to move away from the herd; that giraffe with the gentle look serenely crossing the red trail at Tsavo.

How can one bring to mind the image of those herds of elephants in strict hierarchy, grey at Amboseli, red at Tsavo? Two different races? No, just a variation in the colour of the mud and earth they spray themselves with. And that female surveying us, a little apart from the herd, flapping her great ears, lifting her trunk flanked by impressive tusks? I don´t feel at all like Joseph Kessel, Karen Blixen or Ernest Hemingway and I retreat needlessly to my seat. She didn´t charge! And that baby elephant which, in spite of its four legs, loses its balance and falls while descending the track ?

And that baby elephant which, in spite of its four legs, loses its balance and falls while descending the track ?

And how can one speak of the beauty of this country, the immensity, the sound of the wind in the grass of the savanna, the feeling of being present to a new creation of the world?

For the duration of this safari the whole organisation was carried out calmly and efficiently. The kindness of Rashid, his competence, his patience and helpfulness did not fail for one moment. Charles, the driver, drove with dexterity, apologising sometimes for a jolt that was more violent than the others on these rough trails and bumpy roads.

As for Khan, he performed marvels in the rather rough conditions. He regailed us with meats, grilled or in sauces, local ratatouille, soups, salads and fruits at each meal, always presented with care; breakfasts of crepes, toast, doughnuts, eggs or sausages .... and, supreme luxury, we had the use of a table at all our camping sites.

At Masai Mara, the kindness of the Masai is astonishing. They are efficient, attentive to the campers, watching over our safety all night around a camp fire, sometimes laughing and dancing. At Amboseli, at the foot of Mt Kilimanjaro, the campsite affords an intense experience of the presence of wild animals, making it very commendable to rent the comfortable tents raised on platforms and covered with a roof of makouti. All the campsites were equipped with showers. And what showers !

At Masai Mara I discovered the ingenious system of a large drum under which a fire was kept going permanently to provide hot water.

The days usually started at 6 in the morning: time to gulp a tea or coffee and then off criss-cossing the park in search of the animals. We came back to share a hearty and delicious breakfast. Or we left a little later and ate a picnic at midday. In the evenings, because night falls early and the campsites are not equipped with electricity, the meal was taken in the intimate glow of paraffin lamps and everyone retired to their tent quite early.

There were also days of transfer from one reserve to another, which offered a chance to see more of the countryside, catch a glimpse of life in the villages we passed, wander around the street markets, eat a meal in a local restaurant.

It was a beautiful trip. I will be back, I hope, in this country. But how can I repay for all that it has given me?